Pappy Van Winkle's
Family Reserve
Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
15 years old
53.5% ABV (107 proof)
paid $80
Color: medium chestnut brown
Smell: a sweet, oily cigar (maybe the label is suggestive?). But seriously, layers upon layers of rich caramel and vanilla sweetness - the bourbon version of really good, crusty creme brulee. Digging deeper, there's also leather and tobacco, but this is by no means a "spicebox" nose - these notes present more like a mustiness that slightly offsets and complements the sweetness. For me, it's tied with Eagle Rare 17 (2014 version) for most memorable old bourbon I've smelled.Taste: a bit of a letdown, really. The creamy richness that was promised on the nose doesn't show up on entry; instead, it's surprisingly hot and thin. Don't get me wrong, it's not "bottom shelf" thin or abrasive - just nowhere near as mouth-coddling as I thought it would be given the epic aroma (and, of course, ridiculous reputation). That said, there is plenty of pleasing caramel and vanilla sweetness, and the mid-palate and finish are much stronger than the entry - the leather/tobacco notes take over and persist.
Overall: I like it, but I'm disappointed. Which I guess is to be expected - this thing has taken on absolutely mythical cult whiskey status, perhaps deservedly. It's a very solid B+/A- for me, but that's not what you want out of your unicorn whiskey! It's not as if the emperor has no clothes, but it's not a religious experience.
